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"Mero" is grouper; "toro" is bull. Put them together and you have a splendid "surf-and-turf"–themed restaurant opened three years ago by Gabriela Cámara and Pablo Bueno of the popular Contramar. The place may be located in Mexico City's posh Colonia Condesa, but the vibe is relaxed, and the inspiration comes from far to the northwest, from Baja California, and Cámara and Bueno have secured the services here of one of that region's most accomplished chefs, Jair Téllez of Laja in the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja wine country. Téllez surprises palates in the Mexican capital with such dishes as ceviche made with samphire as well as the expected chiles, combines scallops with cucumbers, flavors risotto with bone marrow, and serves grouper on a bed of puréed cauliflower. Tellez's signature dish, though, shows that he has both feet on the ground: pan-fried pork jowl with lentils and a poached egg.